Erik's Gardening Tips

summer watering tips!

One of the best things you can do if you find that some container plants dry very fast is to repot them into a larger container. By doing this you will accomplish several things. You will reinvigorate your plant since it now has more soil to grow in and you will help to reduce its watering interval period. That fresh soil will act as a natural fertilizer to the plant and you will see new growth which will likely bloom more if a flowering plant, and fresh foliage will soon come if it is grown for foliar effects. A side benefit is that plant will become larger and you will have a bigger display and your watering will not have to be so frequent until the roots fill in and grow in that new soil.
Be sure to tease the roots open (or just cut those circling roots from the old root ball) when you plant into the larger size container and fresh soil. You should also make sure that the plant root ball is well watered before you begin this replanting as it is difficult to rehydrate a root ball when you plant it in a larger container and root pruning and a well watered root ball is not performed before you replant.
Now for the after care of the new transplant, all you have to do is to make sure the plant does not wilt. Do not over water, just give enough to make sure the old root ball seems moist to the touch and let it dry slightly between waterings. The plant should then be fine and grow to fill the new size container without any problems. You can fertilize slightly if you wish after about a month or two after the transplanting operation, and your plant will provide you with a grand flush of growth and ensuing flower display depending on what kind of plant you have.
If the plant seems to wilt a lot after transplanting, you can place it in a shady spot for about a week until new roots grow then bring it back into more light.

supporting the weight of the fruit crop on your fruit trees

Now is a good time to use 'props' to support the weight of the fruit crop on your fruit trees. This can be done in any number of ways and with all kinds of items, the goal being to support the weight of the fruit and prevent breakage of the branches due to this added weight of fruits.
All your previous care in pruning is helping to support the fruit crop now on your fruit trees. Hopefully you have thinned the excess fruit so it is spaced well apart. 'Props' are those supports usually cut from wood (poles, tree trunks, stakes, etc.) that support the weight of the fruit and prevent branches from breaking due to the heavy fruit on those branches. Anywhere you notice the branch bending excessively, just 'prop' a stake under that branch to support it. Some also lightly tie the prop to the branch in windy areas. This is just a temporary measure and is removed once the fruit is harvested.
if those small branches are bending a lot, you can also use string or wire to support those little branches.
Apples, apricots, pears, peaches and nectarines, plums, persimmons, pluots, plumcots, apriums will all benefit from having a heavy crop supported until it is harvested.
Good luck, and enjoy your tree ripened fruits!

care of combination/multiple variety fruit trees

The desire to have a multiple variety fruit tree is enticing. They give you a longer season of harvest with that selection of varieties and you can have more than one tree in the same space as just one tree which only has one type grafted onto it. There is one thing about the care/pruning of these types of fruit trees, and that is that some of the varieties grow at differing rates...some being slow, others very vigorous, and you have to prune accordingly to keep your tree in balance.
Pruning in this case involves not only keeping the tree relatively open (as recommended for all fruit trees), but you must prune back those vigorous growers more severely than the other varieties in order to keep the tree well balanced. You can also practise summer pruning to accomplish this goal. Just be sure to use sharp pruning tools and make clean cuts. If you wait until leaf fall, you can see the branch structure more clearly than when leaves are present, but a bit of keen observation and hands on practise will, in time, yield a similar result. (you learn by doing)
This inequality of varietal growth is clearly seen on the tree itself. You wil see some branches out growing all the rest, and some branches will likely be very weak looking and grow very slowy (prune these just a little, if at all).
Your gaol is to balance the tree and keep the tree's strength directed to all the branches as equally as possible.
Regular fruit tree culture can be followed for the rest of the general care of your tree. ie. thinning fruit, spraying if necessary, harvesting. (light tip pruning during the growing season if you practise summer pruning.)

most spectacular iris in bloom now.. the Japanese iris

Here we are entering the month of June and with it the last of the large iris family. The Japanese iris are the most spectacular of all iris, having blooms to over 1 foot across and brilliant colors, deepest cobalt blue,violet, purples, pure whites, pink, variegated patterns and veins contrasting with the base color of the petals.
Dramatic clean foliage, always nice looking, even after the flowers finish. These iris like moisture and must have acid soil in order to thrive. They like heavy fertilizing with acid plant food as well, this promotes strong vigorous growth. Under good culture, these plants can grow to over 5 ft tall, and have 3+ branches, thus promoting more flowers, extending the flowering season.
a somewhat daunting thing about them is that most have Japanese names, so to the average gardener, in person inspection to see those blooms is necessary. In many cases, a paragraph is needed to describe the color patterns of the flowers, so varied are the blooms.
Petals can number between 3 and 6 most often, but some varieties have 9 ormore petals. Iris are classed as having two basic types of petals, upright petals are usually shorter in Japanese iris and are called standards, the lower, often hanging petals are called falls. Depending on variety, standards can develop into falls, and other floral parts, stamens, etc. can also become falls, thus giving a more 'double' shaped bloom with numerous petals.
three fall varieites are the classic types, proportions are exquisite. The six fall types give the impression of a rounded flower, some people call them 'dinner plate' shaped flowers. Here the petals can be held to the horizontal or can hang. These are very showy, since the petals are large and there are more of them than 'singles'/ three fall cvs.
Of course, multiple petalled forms present an even fuller blossom since there are many more larger petals often giving the impression of a very double flower or pom pom.
The styles (female parts of the iris flowers) can also be multiple and also give quite a contrasting show of color to the blooms. In some cvs. they can look like pom poms in the center of the flowers. If they are of a contrasting color to the petals, they can give a bicolor effet to the blossom.
These iris can be grown in water, but do not need it to thrive. They need a lot of water and will do fine in any perennial border. Just give additional water.
They can also be grown as bog plants or on the shore of bodies of water. They look lovely planted near water, or in water. Just let them not be in water in winter since they can die if the water freezes.
These iris have been bred and cultivated in Japan for over 200 years and have been developed into the largest flowering of all iris. as the dark colors are in the blue range, they give a truly spectacular effect when in bloom. If dark forms are planted with whites, the effect is beyond compare....it is so spectacular, it will remain a cherished memory forever in the mind's eye.

spring/early summer fruit tree care

Now is a good time to dothe following for your fruit trees. You can thin the excess fruit if fruit set is profuse and also tip pinch or prune long shoots of growth. Fertilizer can also be applied to promote vigorous growth.
All fruit trees will benefit from the above tips.
With small fruits like cherries, little thinning to get size and prevent excessively heavy crops are needed, but most other fruits will benefit from having their fruit crop thinned. With larger fruits you can thin to leave 4-8" of space between fruits. By doing this you will get larger size mature fruits, and better shaped ones as well. Thinning reduces the demand of nutrients on the tree so that instead of bearing very heavy one year and then needing to take a bit of a rest the next year(biennial bearing) due to heavy fruit set, your tree will be inclined to produce a great crop again next year(annual bearing).
If you look closely at the young fruits, you will often find them in clusters or very closely spaced on the branch. All you need to do is to take off small or misshapen young fruits and leave the best looking ones to mature. Spacing will get larger size and better quality.
With things like apples and pears, you may need to spray for various things like codling moth, etc.
With citrus, you can thin a bit after they drop off on their own and try to leave the lower branches as much fruit is produced on those low hanging branches rather than higher up in the tree canopy.
Regularly water the trees so that good growth is not checked by lack of water. A well balanced fertilizer can be applied if soil is poor.
As growth of young shoots is occuring now, you can tip pinch those branches once they become 6-8" long if you wish to keep your tree height at a lower level and not need a ladder if you practise this type of backyard orchard culture. With this method, you tip growth at every interval of 6-8" until your desired ultimate height is reached, then keep the tree at that height forever and trim off any growth above that.

caring for plants that have bloomed

One of the biggest questions I get concerning flowering shrubs is about care, specifically pruning. When to do it? How? etc.
Here are a few tips that may help you.
For shrubs that bloom in spring on last year's wood, prune them in bloom or right after. The reason being is that those plants bloom on growth produced the previous year which has ripened. Flower buds form in summer, fall and then the following year bloom on short branches which mainly produce blooms from that year old growth. This pruning technique also renews the plant and keeps the natural form.
You do not have to prune all shrubs, but there are a great many that will benefit from this type of pruning and provide a lavish display of bloom in the garden.
Species like Deutzia, Philadelphus, Weigela, Kerria, Spirea and syringa (Lilacs)are some of the shrubs benefiting from this treatment. Viburnums (especially V. plicatum tomentosum cvs. do not need any pruning, and many others only need minimal trimming)
Fountainous graceful growth follows in species of spirea, and you will improve the compact habit of Weigelas. philadelphus and deutzia will bloom much more if handled in this fashion.
If you do not make individual branch cuts, then you can simple hedge shear the outer 1/3 - 1/2 of the shrub and it will burst forth is a great flush of growth. Leave that alone to bloom next spring.
When you cut branches for vase, cut a bit longer stems and just trim off the excess to fit your vessel. There is nothing more elegant than sprays of flowering shrub branches in arrangements. You can arrange with just branches, or add additional flowers to create a breathtaking arrangement.
Condition stems by cutting in evening and placing branches overnight in deep water, then arrange the next day, keeping those stems moist. You can open the cut ends with either vertical pruing cuts up the cut stem end or hammer them to create a larger surface area to take up water.
Flowering trees generally do not need much trimming to produce a good floral display. If you wish to cut branches, keep in mind the branching structure and cut minimally to keep a nice tree canopy shape. Don't cut too much from plants like flowering cherry, dogwood, or magnolia, you can ruin the shape. If you want some of their blooms, cut from the back or thin out excess branches to leave a less visible cut.

favorites in bloom now

Having enjoyed a spectacular spring after the cold winter, the show continues on. Now are some of my very faovorites. The snowballs and mock oranges, some others too! Viburnums are a very large group and there are among them, some truly spectacular ornamentals. (some even bear fruits....high bush cranberries)
V. plicatum tomentosum is one of the best ornamentals you can plant and almost zero maintenance! Of easy care, they like well drained soil, take sun to shade (more sun=more flowers, you'll have to water more as well). growth comes in tiers so the shrub is ornamental at all seasons, but especially in bloom when either lace cap or snowball clusters of flowers are borne along those horizontal branches in two ranks. Doublefile viburnum comes in several varieties, offers interest at all times of the year and is just so showy in bloom that I recommend it all the time. cv. 'Mariesii', Shasta (larger flowers), Shoshoni, Molly Shroeder)(pink),Pink Beauty(pink), Lanarth, Igloo(new and just superb!)Fuji, Fujisanensis(repeat flowering with smaller clusters), Summer Snowflake (also repeat flowering) and Watanabe (repeat flowering as well on smaller plant) are truly spectacular with their lace cap style flower clusters.
V. plicatum plicatum(Japanese snowball)m Newport (smaller grower), Mary Milton(pink), Triumph/Emerald Triumph), Popcorn, Saint Keverne (flattened snowball clusters like melting whipped cream), Rotundifolium, are some of the nicest selections here. Snowball clusters just cover the plant in all forms.
Additionally, you may get red berries for summer, and wonderful bronze-purple, pink, rose, yellows, oranges, reds for fall colors and architectural branching in winter.
They tend to grow wider than tall so allow plenty of space and you will never have to prune them!
Some newer cvs. of mockorange (philadelphus) are available if you look. Fallbrook is just spectacular. large single - semidouble large white flowers on arching sprays cover the plant. Slightly fragrant too and repeats some bloom summer and fall.
Desert Snow and Gallahad are smaller growers and hybrids of our southwest native Philadelphus microphyllus and although smaller flowers, they have unique grape soda or bubblegum fragranced flowers. Desert Snow arches and Gallahad is more upright to about 4-6 ft.
The more common native P. lewisii is very fine as well. Here you can find the varieties Buckley's Quill with frilly flowers due to the narrow petals, but the common species form is just wonderful as well. Fragrant, easy care, profuse blooming.
For smaller areas, SnowBelle is a low growing double, very nice. and P. coronairus E. A. Bowles/ variegatus is showy even after bloom with white variegated foliage.
The vining/clambering P. mexicanus is very fragrant although less showy in bloom than others. Use it as a vine as it arches over all kinds of things with long supple stems.
a new one for me is Snow Velvet. Larger flowered than Fallbrook, it is also single to semidouble.
All like well drained soil, sull sun for most flowers, but part shade is fine.
styrax (Japanese snowbell) are now in bloom. Here you find small flowering trees with horizontal branches, hanging white or pink bell shaped flowers, their faces looking like stars. These blossoms hang a little and on the plant, present horizontal tiers of blooms and leaves. A wonderful tree to look up into. part shade to full sun, water it well and it will reward you with a most spectacular bloom.
*** If you like wisteria but do not have the room, try this..,, Indigofera incarnata (I. decora). In effect a miniature wisteria bush, it comes in pink or rarely the white. Of easy care, water it regularly, sun or shade, it only grows to about 2-3 ft tall and wide and bears racemes of pink or white miniature wisteria like flowers spring to frost!
**Another favorite is the cutleaf / laceleaf elderberry. This comes in yellow variegated foliage(aurea plumosa, Sutherland's Gold) and black (Black Lace/Eva), and green 'Laciniata') an extreme form is tenuifolia, strange looking to some, it is very feathery, plumy almost like a puff of smoke. water loving, for that moist spot. As the foliage is the main feature, they are showy almost all year when the foliage is on the plant. Upright arching growth and in spring creamy white clusters of flowers later followed by elderberries. these forms are more delicate in appearance than the more pinnately leafed forms.

flowers of high spring season

Now let us continue with the floral display of the season, remembering that this year's blooms are phenomenal due to that cold winter we had!
The shrub/species rose hybrid Rosa x 'Cantabrigiensis' is just specatcular. Single yellow roses cover the upright bush in garlands of blossoms, much like the effect of Fremontodendron, but with none of the difficulties of growing. Very easy care, early profuse bloom, ferny finely divided foliage on upright shoots sometimes to 15ft ! small bristly prickles. Just a wonderful thing to start the rose season, and there are others too. R. Stanwell Perpetual and R. Marie Pavie' are some of the first to bloom and last to finish. Many species bloom ahead of the hybrid groups/classes, and are now beginning bloom to be often followed by colorful hips/heps.
The closer you stay with the natural species, the more resistant to diseases the plants tend to be.
Tree peonies and the hybrid group of intersectionals (tree peony x herbaceous peonies) and the early herbaceous hybrids are in full glory at present! If yo have never seen tree peonies, you are in for a memorable treat! They are huge is size up to 12" across and the colors and textures flamboyant. Superb and magnificent duly describe them, and divided attractive foliage as well. Bushes are up to 6+ feet tall after many years, and herbacewous clumps can get well over 4 - 5 ft across with dozens of blooms/ the tree peonies are reported to have 200-300 of those impressive blooms according to plant explorers in China.
The late lilacs are spectacular now, accompanying them are the early philadelphus cvs., species. Fallbrook and Snow Velvet are large in flower and shrub size. Gallahad and Desert Snow are lower, smaller bushes, but have the captivating fragrance of grape soda, or bubble gum (P. microphyllus is a southwest US native and often carries that fragrance in its offspring)
The large flowered silverbell tree, Halesia diptera magniflora is so very impressive and graceful with its much larger white bells that often flare outward at petal tips. This is a small-medium tree 20-35+ feet.
All the maples have popped out and are at their very best now. Especially the many cvs. of Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, A. japonicum, a. sieboldianum, A. shirasawanum) There are MANY maples from around the world, China being especially rich in species. Of easy culture, they prefer not to have 'wet feet' in winter, and a well drained soil, sun to part shade (some will do fine in more shade) they tend to be a little sun shy so bear that in mind for younger sapling trees and give them some protection until they grow up a few years.
The weigelas are just grand now. Voluminous floral displays in white, pinks, reds, bronze-purple foliage, yellow foliage, and variegated forms are obtainable.
The double bridal wreathe is a favorite of mine as it stays in bloom longer and is so very graceful. Spirea reevesiana)
The viburnums are also spectacular now, the doublefiles, snowballs, and others. V. plicatum tomentosum cvs. are special favorites of mine and need almost zero maintenance. This is a big group and there are many forms obtainable, both large and small.
Many of the conifers are just spectacular as well right now. The new growth lights up the plant with lighter foliage tips of new growth. Firs, spruces, pines, junipers, cedars, and cypresses are only some of the rich assortment much beyond the ordinary common forms seen everywhere.
Soon there will be the first Japanese iris. These are the most spectacular of all iris with blooms in vivid colors to 12" across. They need rich ACID soil and heavy watering to show their potential.
Now is bearded iris season and there are so many brilliant color forms. I particualrly like the amoena pattern, darker blue lower petals (falls) and lighter , often white upright petals (standards). Of easy care, they like sun, I like the remontant group which will often show blooms later in the year after the spring bloom is over for the once bloomers.

spring season bloomers!

The latest of the flowering cherries are now in bloom. Prunus serrulata 'Shirofugen' and P. s. 'Shogetsu'. The first has mid pink double blooms on long hanging flower stalks displayed with coppery bronze new foliage. Tree forms a flat topped crown of branches to 25-30 ft and similar spread. Shogetsu is a small tree, a specimen of 15 feet is very large for this variety. However, it is one of my favorites! Long stalked light pink double flowers resemble a ballerina's tutu and are profuse. This tree will form a spreading flat topped crown with some hanging branches. Both late bloomers, they can still have flowers into late May. (this year is very early for them).
Now we also have tree peonies in all their glorious splendor! They are just spectacular and also very easy care...just plant them and forget them..enjoy the blossoms every year(some get very large...to ver 12" diameter!). They like well drained fertile soil, enrich it at planting time very much and they will reward you for more than 50 years! Each year's blooom increases if you just take a little care of them so that in time(mainly do the soil preparation at the initial planting time), your plant may have 200-300 blooms on it!
The later lilacs are also in full swing, their fragrance floats on the breezes..There are many selections now from which to choose.
Many Syringa vulgaris cvs. in white, pink, lavender to purples, and some reddish shades as well. There is even a yellow ('Primrose' and a picoteed form 'Sensation' purple edged in white) These make long lived big shrubs.
Lilacs are a big group. There are many lesser known types ranging from dwarf, smaller selections to other very large types and some almost unknown species and their forms. (one has pendulous flower clusters (S. reflexa) and others bloom later than the common type.
The mock oranges (philadelphus spp.) are usually known as large white flowering shrubs, many are fragrant! Now there are more from which to choose. Smaller forms, some have grape soda or bubble gum fragrance! (P. microphyllus hybrids, 'Gallahad', 'Desert Snow')
There are variegated foliage forms, singles and doubles, and lower growing cvs.
Easy care, regular water and cut them in bloom or just after since they bloom on old wood produced last year and this will keep their graceful shape. 'Fallbrook' 'Snow Velvet, Snow Dwarf are just a few particularly nice ones.
The deutzias are also wonderful spring bloomers. Mostly whites and pinks, these are easy care of similar culture to the Philadelphus. I like this group very much since they cut so nicely. Fountainous growth with small branches tipped in flower clusters are what these shrubs offer. Again, small to large shrub forms.
D. ningpoensis, G. gracilis, D. Rosalind', D. scabra cvs. D. Pink Pompom, D. 'Magicien'
The Weigelas (wye-gee-la) so often mispronounced! offer voluminous floral displays in white, pinks, and reds. There are also foliage colored forms in yellow, bronze purple, and variegated. arching growth of last year flowers prufusely with tube shaped flowers. Hummers really like this group! They are rather coarse looking when not in bloom, so a more backround/secondary placement in the landscape would suit these shrubs.
W. florida is the old timer, still wonderful, Olympiade/Rubidor yellow leaves, lipstick red flower tubes!, Looymansii aurea yellow leaves, pink flowers, white knight, vanicek, bristol ruby, abel carriere, candida, wine and roses, french lace, variegata are some to try, there are others.
Now comes a very dear favorite of mine, introduced to me originally from a friend/volunteer at Strybing Arboretum years ago (I went to see a vine of it in her garden). This is clematis montana. It looks absolutely dead in winter, but alas! come spring, it transforms itself into one of the truly great spectacles of frangrance in spring! The plant is profusely covered in small white or pink 'anemone' like flowers with the fragrance of vanilla candy. It also cuts wonderfully so you enjoy a spray or two indoors or to share with friends. This blooms on old wood so pruning is easy. Cut in bloom or just after to a lower branching and the plant will renew itself in the growing season, to bloom profusely once again enxt spring. give plenty of water for good growth and also fertilize since they grow very fast with the spring push of growth.
C. montana 'Alexander', Rubens, Tetra rose, wilsonii.
Of special mention are two similar magnolias of smaller status. They grow to shrub status. M. sieboldii and M. wilsonii are just wonderful additions to any landscape. They both flower with the leaves and offer hanging white lanterns of fragrant blooms. Crimson stamens await the close observer to the blossoms. Enrich the soil well with organic matter, good drainage, and then have patience, each year they improve and the flowering season is a long one, it can go on well into summer!
A final note for a special group..the Viburnums. Here are some of my very favorites. V. plicatum tomemtosum cvs. are just spectacular shrubs. They are among the finest ornamentals you can plant AND they are almost ZERO maintenance. Here you will find horizontally branching growth bearing white lace cap or snowball flower clusters in spring, red berries in summer, fall has glorious autumnal colors and then the architectural branching for winter. Regular water, they bloom in sun to shade (more sun=more flowers, but need a bit more water in that exposure as well). Mainly white(there are pinks), they give the impression of white lace on green velvet when in bloom, and some bloom repeatedly through summer, fall. These grow wider than tall and are just SUPERB! I am gathering many to once again form a nice collection. Here are some for you to try/look for for your own gardens.
Fuji, Shasta, Shoshoni, Lanarth, Mariesii, Saint Keverne, Igloo, Summer Snowflake, Fujisanensis, Watanabe, Molly Shroeder' (pink) are all lacecape forms of the doublefile viburnum. The flower clusters are displayed in two ranks(hence doubl file) on the horizonatally growning branches.)
Newport, Kern's Pink, Mary Milton (pink), grandiflorum, rotundifolium, plicatum, Triumph are some of the snowball forms.
With all these and the last of the wisterias coming on(W. f. 'Shiro noda/Longissima Alba), spring is truly a spectacular season! and there is so much more!

flowering fruit trees

This past winter cold has been of great benefit to plants needing a winter dormancy period. Among these plants are the spectacular flowering fruit trees. We have seen an outstanding display this year of flowering purple leaf plums (blossoms still going on) and the beginnings of the flowering cherry season. Magnolias are just wonderful this year, much better than the past few years (warmer winters). The crabapples have begun with early varieties and then we shall enjoy the later bloomers and the doubles very much pretty soon! The flowering peaches and apricots, as well as Prunus mume(Japanese flowering apricot/plum) have been wonderful as well and with some, the season has only just started. Also, the fruiting trees have been especially showy this year. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums and pluots, cherries, apples, pears have presented us with a nice floral display.
I would like to draw your attention to the flowering cherries, a personal favorite. My season began with the hybrid Prunus 'incamp. 'Okame' with strong neon pink bell shaped flowers in profusion. Then came others like Prunus subhirtella in the many varied forms (best known in the weeping forms (weeping flowering cherry). P. 'Pink Cloud was next with bright pink single flowers en masse. Following this are the Yoshino cherry (P. x yedoensis and forms) and P. serrulata spontanea (Hill cherry of Japan) This one is most spectacular with single flowers on a potentially very large tree to 45 ft+ and displayed with ruby brown new leaves, that classic combination of red and white!
Some early doubles like P/ 'Accolade' with medium pink semidouble flowers on a rounded tree to 20 ft+ and P. subhirtella 'Autumnalis' with profuse double pink flowers now. (and small little flowers throughout fall and winter.
One persoanl favorite is P. serrulata 'Tai Haku' with the largest flowers of any cherry...2-4" wide and displayed with coppery new growth. This is a vigorous grower to 25-30 tall and wide.
All cherries (and most flowering fruit trees in general, like well drained fertile soil in a sunny location (many will tolerate up to about half shade(although slightly less flowers).
Regular watering and light fertilizing will promote good growth. structural pruning should be done as a young tree and then not much is needed as the tree matures in many types of flowering fruit trees. (peaches, plums, apricots being the esception, they need regular pruning to keep vigor and produce long flowering sprays.)
Plant some of these wonderful trees and enjoy spring for many years to come!